One of the Frequently Asked Cordwood Questions (FACQ) is: “What type of wood can I use?” At one time, the answer was, “Anything you got.” But over time folks realized that there were good, better and best options for wood selection. To narrow down your choices let’s place the woods on a continuum. Hardwoods are dense, and have a tendency to swell and crack mortar joints; thus making softwoods the better choice There are quite a few choices, but the best one is a naturally rot resistant, disease free, decay resistant, insect resistant softwood with a low shrinkage rate and a high R-value.
With all that taken into consideration, cedar stands out as an ideal wood for cordwood. Are others that work? Absolutely. The pines work very well, but they have a bit more shrinkage and are prone to insect infestation and the wood must be peeled immediately and dunked in a borax solution.
Types of Wood for Cordwood
- Low-density softwoods like Cedar and Pine work best. Their cellular structure has more airspace and provides better insulation and less shrinkage.
- High-density hardwoods like oak and maple are heavier and more compact and swell when subjected to water/humidity.
- Cedar is rot resistant, smells good, is lightweight and has a pleasing color.
- The following is a list of woods that can be successfully used within a cordwood wall (pay attention to the volumetric shrinkage rate, which will tell you how much your wood will shrink after cutting).
Volumetric shrinkage (total shrinkage) of cedar, pine, tamarack & aspen
- Northern White Cedar volumetric shrinkage 7.2%: Cedar is the ideal wood for cordwood because it possesses so many of the qualities needed to make a successful cordwood building. However, other woods can be used with confidence. Often the final result is in the proper preparation.
- Red Pine volumetric shrinkage 11.3%
- Virginia Pine volumetric shrinkage 11.9%
4. Lodge Pole Pine volumetric shrinkage 11.1%
5. Aspen volumetric shrinkage 11.5% rated as non-durable With aspen (poplar) the face of the log will often turn black from UV and rain. This is a good candidate for staining the exterior log face.
If you leave the wood round, it is going to develop a primary check. You can fix this (by stuffing) before or after the wall building.
6. Tamarack volumetric 13.6% moderately durable Tamarack is a very dense softwood and if not split and dried can have the same effect as a hardwood (swelling, cracking mortar joints, pushing walls out of plumb). Tamarack is best used for posts, beams, and boards.
7. Red Cedar volumetric shrinkage 7.8% Aromatic, decay/insect resistant, durable, allergen
If you are going to use a wood other than cedar, you will want to determine whether you have to treat the wood with borax (a non-toxic, naturally occurring product) to stop or prevent insect damage. A solution is made of hot water and borax (1 gallon of hot water to 4 cups of borax, mix thoroughly and dunk the log ends for 30 seconds each. Let dry.
Shrinkage information from the Wood Database http://www.wood-database.com/ These are while cedar round logs in a cordwood wall. Each has developed a primary check. The check runs all the way through from the outside to the inside. This lets air flow into the house. In this picture, the check is being stuffed with white fiberglass to match the mortar color. You can use brown paper bags, newspaper, caulk (it has to be a moveable caulk or it will CRACK) or any type of material that looks decent. The check needs to be filled on the outside and the inside.
When a wall has mostly all splits and they are well dried, there is usually very little log loosening, air infiltration or primary checking.
One way to keep the round “look” and not have the primary check or log loosening problem is to “explode” the round logs (split them) and then put them back together in the wall.
AVOID THIS RESULT.
This is what we are trying to avoid. A log that was not dry enough, developed a large primary check and loosened severely in the wall. How to avoid this? Use softwood, dry it well, split most of it and use a slow setting, slow curing mortar like I suggest in my book Cordwood Construction Best Practices.
This is what mortar cracking looks like. What causes this? The mortar mix is too rich in Portland cement, it needs more sawdust to make it weaker (weaker being a good thing in terms of wood masonry). It was also mortared in the hot sun, which dried it out too fast. It was not covered after the workday to slow down the set and cure.
If you don’t use a “Best Practices” approach, this is often the end result.
Should you wish to learn how to build a cordwood cottage, cabin or home, please visit www.cordwoodconstruction.org While you are there, click on the pictures, read the brief articles, check out the latest workshops and newsletter and if you are interested click on the Online Bookstore to see all the cordwood literature available in print and ebook format. If you have questions that aren’t answered on the website you can email me at email@example.com
Readers have requested a brief bio, so here goes:
Richard & Becky Flatau built their mortgage-free cordwood home in 1979 in Merrill, Wisconsin. Since then, they have written books, conducted workshops, facilitated the 2005, 2011 and 2015 Cordwood Conferences and provided consultation for cordwood builders. Cordwood Workshop DVD (2018), Cordwood Construction Best Practices (print 2017) and Cordwood Conference Papers 2015 are the newest publications available from their Online Cordwood Bookstore. The books & DVD are also available as ebooks for a quick and easy shipping free download. www.cordwoodconstruction.org
This is the Cordwood Workshop DVD will show you how to build a best practices cordwood home.
The 30 detailed menu items from the Cordwood Workshop DVD.
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